Sewing the tam v 2.0


Pattern & Cutting

·      Construct pattern for tam.
·      Using the pattern, cut out one piece each in velvet, interlining, lining.
·      cut a hat band twice as wide as the desired finished band + seam allowances; its length should be head circumference + about 3” + seam allowances.  (or simply use bias tape that width)
·      Cut a cardboard template of the tam top (will be marked on pattern).

Sewing:

1.     Layer interlining on wrong side of velvet; baste along spokes and fold lines; mark center.
2.     With interlining on bottom layer and using a cardboard octagon as a guide for the top shape, fold in brim (aligning lines of spokes, and folding on seam lines of darts):



3.     Baste along seam lines of darts and sew (through both layers).  Tack the edges of the darts down along adjacent seam lines so that they lie flat.
4.     Using compass with point in hat center, mark a circle for seam line of hat band.  Baste along seam line (leaving tam top free).  Trim, leaving seam allowance.
5.     Turn right side out (velvet on outside).
6.     Repeat steps for 1-5 for lining, but trimming seams of darts rather than tacking them.
7.     Place lining inside tam & baste along seam lines.  
8.     Add band, sewing along seam line.  Check for puckers and folds.  Sew closed by hand, on inside.

9.     sew button or tassel into center on top, through all three layers.  Probably a good idea to anchor with a button on the inside.

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