Robe

Detail of illustration from Gardner Cottrell Leonard,
The Cap and Gown in America, (Albany, 1896), p. 15.  

Since the academic gown is a version of a medieval robe, I considered starting with a costume for a medieval dress (less unisex, but who cares?). Perhaps a version of McCalls 4492 with great bell sleeves (minus the over-bodice, and without the upper arm puffing, maybe with enlarged arm holes, and cartridge pleating attaching the sleeve to bodice). Or perhaps McCalls5155 (minus the sash, and swapping in the bell sleeves from McCalls 4492).  One drawback: the pattern is for a dress not an overgarment, and so unless I made it several sizes larger, it would not be something to wear over regular clothes (as per usual academic gown).  This isn’t necessarily a problem, since it is often very hot here in mid May for commencement.  Still, in some years it is cool enough for the extra layer.  Another drawback:  there is no feature of the gown suitable for attaching and anchoring the hood (a persistent problem when marching in regalia).  I found versions of both patterns online (they are discontinued) and bought them, but my current thinking is that I won’t go this route.

My current thought is that a cape is a good approximation of an academic gown.  It captures the traditional silhouette, but without all the puffy volume of the typical academic gown, which is not particularly flattering on a slight figure.  Some precedent:  some versions of an academic robe actually have slits in the long sleeves for arms (e.g. this master's gown), which is essentially what a cape has, and slit sleeves are found in some doctoral gowns as well.  In another imaginative recreation of an academic robe:  Snape’s gown has slits for arms as well.

I found two good possibilities:  Simplicity 8017 (retro 1960s cape with collar and three buttons – love the collar; would need to lengthen approx. 8”), and Vogue 8959 (round collar cape; would use version C, shortened about 6”).  I really like the collar in the Simplicity (retro-1960s), and it also has three buttons in the front, good for attaching hood.  Potential drawback: I can’t tell for sure from the online information, but it looks like the back is constructed of two panels (center seam join) that extend around to the front slit line), which might make it too wide at the hemline if I lengthen it 8”).  So that would argue for the Vogue pattern (which I suppose I can alter to use the Simplicity collar – but do I want to buy two patterns?).

My current thinking is that I will go with some version of the cape option. What will it cost?  The yardage for the Simplicity is 4-1/8 yards @ 45” + 2-7/8 yard lining (but need to lengthen 8”).  The yardage for the Vogue is 6-1/2 yards @ 45” + 5-3/8 yard lining (but need to shorten 6”).  So as a rough estimate, let’s say 6 yards fabric and 5 yards lining @ $30 and $15 per yard respectively.  That makes approx. $255 dollars for fabric.  With notions, pattern(s), buttons, etc. that’s about $300.  (Compare approx. $700 for high quality fabrics at one online source).  If you factor in the time to make, it’s not an obvious bargain, but if the construction project is recreation, a substantial savings).

What colour to make the gown/cape?  My alma mater’s official gown is red with black velvet trim, and I look good in red.  But (a) the total effect would be more conspicuous than a black cape; (b) the official red is not a very attractive shade, in my opinion; (c) the combination of this red with the dark blue velvet of the doctoral hood may be unattractive.  So I’m currently leaning toward generic black for the gown (unless I find a red that I like and am willing to swap for the official colour).  How about black lined with red?

What about chevrons on the sleeves?  Doctoral gowns traditionally have three:  three black chevrons on a red sleeve in the official gown (too garish for my taste).  Or I could do three black chevrons on a black gown.  I’m leaning towards omitting the chevrons entirely.  Omission leaves the possibility of using the cape for other occasions as a piece of outerwear, whether it is red or black.



Later thoughts on the robe (including change of mind on colour and chevrons)

Hood
Cap