Detail of illustration from Gardner Cottrell Leonard, The Cap and Gown in America , (Albany, 1896), p. 15. Since the academic gown is a version of a medieval robe, I considered starting with a costume for a medieval dress (less unisex, but who cares?). Perhaps a version of McCalls 4492 with great bell sleeves (minus the over-bodice, and without the upper arm puffing, maybe with enlarged arm holes, and cartridge pleating attaching the sleeve to bodice). Or perhaps McCalls5155 (minus the sash, and swapping in the bell sleeves from McCalls 4492). One drawback: the pattern is for a dress not an overgarment, and so unless I made it several sizes larger, it would not be something to wear over regular clothes (as per usual academic gown). This isn’t necessarily a problem, since it is often very hot here in mid May for commencement. Still, in some years it is cool enough for the extra layer. Another drawback: there is no feature of t...
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